The countryside around Ribeiro Frio, in that intimidatingly steep and beautiful center of Madeiro. The cold river (I think that’s more or less what the name means?) is that white band you see down below; and the town (and stream) are famous for their trout. Yes, the fish, trout. In the tropics. Yes. As is Curral das Freires for its chestnuts. Roasted chestnuts were more omnipresent on the streets of Madeira last year than any place I’ve been with the possible exception of NYC in the winter in the 1970s. And trout more spoken about in Ribeiro Frio than any place I’ve been in an equally long time. This little tropical island was full of surprises, what can I say?

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